Spago now open in Shanghai!

And it is "a match for anything on the Bund"! No surprise there. But wait, there's more. Spago "has already become a popular lunch spot with pasta, Western, pizza and Asian sets for ¥19, 29 and 39" and is perfect for "fashionistas on a shoe-string." What? Huh?

Nowhere in its four-star review of new Shanghai restaurant Spago (595 Nanjing Xi Lu, 南京西路595号, Tel: 6271-3777) does City Weekend mention that "this versatile new space" maybe, just maybe, totally stole its name from what Frommer's calls "one of the best-known restaurants in the United States."

The grilled lamb chop with cous cous sounds good, but if we were Shanghai's "Spago," we might be expecting a call from Wolfgang Puck's people.