February 26, 2008
Book Review: Shadow of the Silk Road
This Shanghaiist isn’t a massive fan of travel writing. As interested as we are in other places and in travelling, we’d rather experience these places ourselves – we don’t like someone else spoiling all the surprises for us. We’ve also become a bit tired of reading work by Westerners “experiencing” China, given that these pieces often tend to say the same shallow things: China is currently in the midst of rapid economic growth (gasp!); the Chinese eat all sorts of crazy stuff (shriek!); they openly spit in public (run for the hills!).
Colin Thubron’s Shadow of the Silk Road – a travel book which spends roughly half its pages focusing on China and is written by an Englishman – may therefore seem like a strange choice of book to read, but it came to us as a Christmas present and highly recommended by our mother, so who were we to argue?
As the title suggests, the book sees Thubron following the path of the old Silk Road, beginning in Xi’an and winding his way across China and through several central Asian states before reaching his journey’s end at the shore of the Mediterranean in Kurdish Turkey.
Having written his first book about China – Behind the Wall – during the 1980s, Thubron inevitably comments on the vast and sweeping changes that are taking place in modern day China, but he does so in a refreshing way. Touching and amusing anecdotes abound as he threads his way along the former Silk Road trail, revisiting old haunts and old friends, and it is these individual and informed viewpoints on what is happening that set this work apart from the jaded, formulaic writing on China that you may find elsewhere.
In addition to displaying a substantial amount of knowledge and understanding about the areas through which he travels, Thubron writes in a way that humanises the country – something that other Western writers sometimes fail to do. Indeed, in many ways, the book is more about the people he meets rather than the places he visits. Whether it’s a naïvely optimistic businessman in Xi’an, an angry, nationalistic Uighur in Kashgar, or a poor farmer in a village in Gansu who believes he has Roman ancestry, their tales are at times heart-warming, at times heart-breaking, but are always delivered in an honest way that neither patronises their subjects nor seeks to use them as a basis for sweeping generalisations about the country as a whole.
There is no attempt to portray their stories or their lives as revelations that he alone has discovered despite the fact that he visits some fairly remote locations – Thubron merely offers these individual insights into the well-documented changes occurring within China’s borders as human interest stories that provide a personal viewpoint on the struggle for identity in the midst of enormous economic and social upheaval. If anything, Thubron uses their tales to show what a diverse and fragmented country China is, rather than taking their tales as indicative of all Chinese.
Another reason that Shadow of the Silk Road presents a refreshing reading of China’s transitions is Thubron’s mastery as a writer. An accomplished and broadly experienced travel writer, Thubron is also an award-winning novelist and this is evident in his narrative – the account of his travels at times reading like a work of fiction, brimming with rich descriptions and colourful characters. The pace of the book is measured without dragging and provides a suitable amount of depth whilst retaining a page-turning quality, but every sentence, every word, appears carefully chosen and paints a vivid picture or makes a salient point.
Whether you are a newcomer to China or have lived here for years, Thubron's writing style and the stories contained within combine to make Shadow of the Silk Road a thoroughly worthwhile read. Moreover, Thubron’s fascinating career, that has seen him travel extensively throughout central Asia and Russia, together with his understanding of China, should make his appearance at M on the Bund this Sunday one of the highlights of this year’s Shanghai International Literary Festival.


This book isn't much. The guy is weirdly obsessed with race in an old-fashioned, boorish kind of way. If you want a thorough comparison of how swarthy various ethnicities are in various regions, this is your book. He doesn't seem to care much about people as individuals, and instead goes pages and pages over DNA tests to see if people are (say) part Caucasian, and when first describing people he inevitably zeros in on the traits of their facial features and what race they most resemble (the guy is an amateur phrenologist). He consistently makes poetic assumptions on romantic stereotypes of their ethnicity.
I don't read books looking for un-PC statements to jump on, generally I could care less. But it was so blatant in this book, there's no getting past it.
He obviously has his own very strong opinions of how the world should be, characters are very often given to express what are obviously the author's opinions, however awkward or unrealistic the conversation may be. Cab drivers are quick to give their opinion on the state of the nation. He lives in a world where people introduce themselves, then immediately go to a back room and quietly give a quick appraisal of the failings of the national government.
And mastery as a writer? The book breaks down to: "I saw this. It was sad. Then I went here. It was sad. Then I went here. It was sad."
And how could a review not mention the ridiculous device of arguing with an imaginary old-time silk-road merchant, who keeps calling the author "pansy-boy" and the like? That easily was the most ridiculous device I've ever seen used in a work of non-fiction.
I too wasn't wild about the book, and I'm usually a big fan of travel narratives. You never get the sense of what daily life is like for the people he encounters, and he didn't do a good enough job of juxtaposing the broad similarities of all cultures along the Silk Road with their modern day reality. A good travel writer gives you a sense of a place, and with Thubron I never got that- his book just seemed like a random series of encounters with different people bunched together- they didn't really seem to fit together all that well.
And like the previous commenter, I was annoyed by Thubron's style- the silk-road merchant part was particularly absurd. I also noticed the complete absence of any humor or of many personal touches. There are quite a few good books written about travels in China and in Asia, but I'm afraid Shadows of the Silk Road isn't one of them.
"I don't read books looking for un-PC statements to jump on, generally I could care less. But it was so blatant in this book, there's no getting past it."
You don't need to apologize for yourself and there nothing wrong with being annoyed by/caring about this kind of stuff.
I think the story of the guy who believes he has roman ancestry was doing the rounds on Chinese TV lately too. I think it's probably the same guy?
On the TV report he thinks it's basically because his hair is a bit curly and his nose has a prominent bridge.
Sounds more like he thinks he's related to old hollywood movie romans.
The only travel book I've ever read was the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux which I thought was really good (as long as you skipped the first chapter) with his conversations with the locals and observations of the people and the places. Often he would ask about the mao and/or the cultural revolution.
How does this book compare with that one?