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Things are looking slightly up for long-suffering diners clamoring for decent Mexican food. Colossal (and the not so colossal) burritos burst onto the scene last year and found salivating customers willing to throw money and lower standards. Recently, ambitions to elevate the cuisine and fill that still simmering void in Shanghai have manifested themselves in the form of Maya, Brad Turley's reintroduction of Zoco's former space and new introduction of a classier, upmarket Mexican restaurant.
Old habits die hard; when we first got hold of the menus we looked up and down for the absent burritos. The closest thing on the menu was the chimichanga, the burrito's deep fried second cousin. The verdict: golden, beefy, bathed in sour cream, and unfortunately a few sizes too small for how good it was. Next up, the taco pack: fish, chicken, and beef each half-clothed in a crisped, soft tortilla. Our cohorts thought the chicken taco was exceedingly salty, but somehow everything in the combo was devoured up anyway.
Of course, we had to move beyond the normal taco stand fare, even though that's what we've had the jones for ever since '03. At its best, Mexican food is is a mash-up of memorable flavors - citrus tang, sharp chillies, fresh and tender seafood and meats. The scallop ceviche was the embodiment of this marinated balance, perfect after a day of running around in Shanghai's nearly ending summer weather. Our first ever Shanghai sope, a small hill of refried beans and cheese sitting atop its cornmeal base, was a solid copy of those we enjoyed back in Cali.
Unfortunately, this is Shanghai, and we're far away from the cheap avocados, chillies, and limes of the Gulf of California region that inspired Turley's creations. As a result of the higher cost of getting these wonderful ingredients locally, Maya sits on the pricier end (mains range between 80-180 RMB) of the cost/portion spectrum, which sucks for us who'd eat there everyday if we could. Still, Maya is a winning combo of something different and well-made, and is thus worth the recommendation here.
Maya - 2/F, Shanghai Grand Plaza Club house, 568 Julu Lu near Shaanxi Nan Lu (巨鹿路568号四方新城俱乐部2楼近陕西南路), Tel: Phone: 6289-6889, Hours: 5pm-1:00am, closed on Sundays
Eric Hu is Shanghaiist's Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news and gossip about Shanghai's food scene to food at shanghaiist.com.
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I agree with the article about the food being great. I really cannot say that the food is expensive though in relation to value. I've been there 3 times already. I've gone in groups and their main courses are HUGE! and good for sharing. Each time i spent around 200RMB for food and drinks and left the place totally stuffed. The food is awesome and great value. Anyone who finds it expensive should simply work harder and quit bitching when finally we have some authentic mexican food in Shanghai. it was about time!
Sombreros off to Brad and his crew.
It sounds like this is more Tex-Mex (the American/Texas cuisine made popular in the USA and often referred to as "Mexican"). Tex-Mex, while delicious in its own right, is far and away different from actual Mexican cuisine (which can vary extensively depending on the region). Chimichangas were invented by the owner of a diner in Arizona, for instance. The typical huge burrito that has become popular is a California derivative.
I wont waste time berating the already inadequate review given above(if you want a burrito go to Cal Kitchen, but then again, it may be too expensive for you as well!)
Since i moved here 3 years ago i have pined for a mexican restaurant with some at least attempted authenticity, and I can finally say we have it.
The food is as fresh as you will get here, no 3 day old fish and wilted vegetables here. the scallop ceviche goes well with a margarita.
I highly recommend the tilapia taco and for those with a sweet tooth, the churros are muy bien!
it may be a representation of mexican food, but its as close as we are gonna get here in China, and really does it matter? the food ROCKS! And like the above comment says, the food isnt expensive,i got stuffed on 200rmb, which is better than most places in this town can do!
The place is still in its soft opening phase, but I expect good things and some longevity out of Maya, finally!
After reading these comments, for a second there I thought I had given a negative review! I'm happy Maya is here and I wholeheartedly recommend it. The simple reality is that there are a few of us who can't afford to spend 200 RMB a night to eat there everyday, which is what I wrote that I'd love to do. Call me cheap (as so often people do on this site) or poor or whatever, I don't care. Paying the equivalent of $9 USD for three tacos or $9 USD for a nachos order that consists of about a dozen chips makes this a premium experience. And there's nothing wrong with that, that's thewaythingsare. And no one here ever said Cal Kitchen was cheap, either. I plan on visiting Maya again because the food IS good and we finally DO have quality Mexican food here, but obviously people operate on different budgets here, and it's worth pointing that out. Berate away if you wish.
I had the tacos at Maya and felt like the chicken and beef tacos were over-seasoned. The fish taco was good though.
In response to some of the comments above, you've got some problems if it takes over 200rmb to have enough to eat every night. How about you have one less dessert and feed a family of 10 Chinese people?
"Anyone who finds it expensive should simply work harder and quit bitching"
Wow. F--- you poor people.
$26 for Mexican food is pretty pricey - especially seeing how its rice beans and meat. You know, peasant food. (I mean, Maya isn't serving up moles, are they? ARE THEY? If they are, then HUGE thumbs up).
I do plan to check them out soon - since I'd gladly kick someone in the nards for decent mexican food.
I think the pricey/cheap argument makes sense here - when it didn't for the 9rmb baguettes at Paul.