Qian Qiu Shan Fang: Taiwanese close to home

Taiwanese food in downtown Puxi has traditionally been the purview of second cousins Charmant and Bellagio. Somewhat ignored is Qian Qiu Shan Fang (千秋膳房) on Baoqing road, a few blocks down from Charmant. What it lacks in decor and vibe it more than makes up for with competent basics and great value for money.

The stage was set with the lu rou fan, a bowl of minced fatty pork that is stewed into a thick gravy and poured over rice and mixed with pickled cabbage and a solitary soy-boiled egg. Unlike at other Taiwanese eateries, it's served in a large bowl and is a fragrant stand-alone unto itself. For entrails lovers, the Hakka-style pig intestines have a strong, brawny flavor that comes in a tender and chewy package. Less adventurous but just as satisfying are the various dumplings and snacks. The xiao long bao and pot stickers, mainland transplants that long ago ingratiated themselves into the vocabulary of the regional cuisine, weren't mind-blowing but very good; the pan-fried scallion cakes and crispy pork rolls beyond reproach. At about an average of 50 RMB a person, there's no reason you should be stuck waiting in line at Charmant the next time you have a craving for Taiwanese; just make the short stroll over to Qian Qiu Shan Fang.

Qian Qiu Shan Fang (千秋膳房) - No. 15 Baoqing Lu, near Fuxing Lu (宝庆路15号, 近复兴路) Tel: 6437-7597

Eric Hu is Shanghaiist's Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news and gossip about Shanghai's food scene to food at shanghaiist.com.