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Barbie Cafe: yes dudes, it's safe to go

barbiecafe.jpg The new Barbie flagship store aims to capture the attention of more than just those with blonde ambitions, and nowhere is this effort more apparent than the Barbie Cafe.

Perched on the top floor of this orgiastic display of Barbie worship, the Barbie Cafe is a brasserie mixed with an American diner and doused with a splash of fanciful pink. Her presence is subtle, but everywhere; from the monochromatic mosaic of the restaurant's floor (an homage to her debut outfit, we understand) to the icons adorning the dessert plates. Yet this isn't merely some blinding gimmick to seduce the curious or the obsessed. This is a David Laris project, and as such the food never takes a backseat to the whimsy.

Head chef Tessa Thompson, a newcomer to the Shanghai scene, has devised a varied menu of European and American classics, with some slight and playful thematic twists. The blossom that sat atop our potato salad was initially confused for tuna, given its bright red color. Turned out it was salmon marinated in beetroot, in keeping with the pink hotness along one side of the restaurant. The mixed green salad, dubbed the "Fashionista," was light, cheery, and covered in walnuts and crisp, juicy mandarin. The seafood linguine was conspicuously traditional, but nevertheless delicious. We're pretty sure Barbie isn't allowed to touch sugar, but the gelatos were a winner, as was the signature dessert: a blondie (what else) chock full of pralines and fatty butterscotch goodness.

Thompson assured us that although first impressions of the restaurant may be that of capricious femininity, there are still plenty of items that would satisfy the manliest of rugby players, starting with the burger. We didn't get a chance to try it, but the chef claimed she played it by the book: juicy, cheesy, and bacon-y. Yup, exactly the things we associate with Ken.

Burgers and pastas and sandwiches clock in mostly well under 100 RMB, with larger mains straddling the century mark. Set lunches top out at 80 RMB, and currently there's a buy 3 get 1 free deal with the business sets. Yes, businessmen in suits, they're giving you every reason to shirk your preconceptions about dining in the Barbie store, now go and get your pink lemonade on!

Eric Hu is Shanghaiist's Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news and gossip about Shanghai's food scene to food at shanghaiist.com.

Contact the author of this article or email tips@shanghaiist.com with further questions, comments or tips.
By Eric Hu in on May 16, 2009 10:00 AM

Comments [rss]

  • LoveChinaLongTime

    "Yes, businessmen in suits, they're giving you every reason to shirk your preconceptions about dining in the Barbie store, now go and get your pink lemonade on!"



    Pedophiles trolling the place or looking for bored er nais to nail while their Taiwan/HK sugar daddies are out of town?



    I like this concept of further watering down the "culture" and giving Shanghai its ever deserving, pretentious place on the map!



    Long live BARBIE!!!!

  • @quantumcooney ... not liking the Barbie Superstore and it's equally tasteless looking 'cafe' means I have "extremely narrow sensibilites"?



    Let's get a coffee one day and i'll introduce you to this thing called logical progression.



    Super688. It's called satire. And what you look and and think 'well lit' I look at and think 'one of the most cluttered and tasteless designs I have ever seen.



    Come on, lets have more commenters come out and say they think that Barbie and that cafe look appealing or tasteful. Identify yourselves. It's like the 100 flowers campaign:)

  • EL JEFE

    I was sold at orgiastic

  • lefreak

    Clearly Andy, you consider yourself either a bit of a rebel or an intellectual, you unfortunately come across as neither, more like a predictable pseudo rebel. This is the result of a forum that allows anyone to say anything they like. Well at least you have in this medium an opportunity to pontificate meaningless muses. Have you even been to concept, or did you just wish you could have had a Barbie but they were not for boys. Have you ever appreciated the joy and innocence that things like this bring to children.

  • super688

    You don't understand! People spending *80 kuai* on a meal! And just look at the picture, the place is *well lit*!



    This perfectly captures why people need to be killed. It's too bad Mr. Best wasn't around China 40 years ago.

  • quantumcooney

    That sounds positively fascist of you, Andy.



    I've never much been into Barbies, but I'm almost willing to visit this place just to spite your extremely narrow sensibilities.

  • That photo and this write up perfectly captures the essence of a culture begging to be lined up against a wall and shot by revolutionarys.



    But then again, you don't need to go beyond the carpet for that kind of sentiment.

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