Ji Heng Taiwanese beef noodles

Before one even gets out of the taxi, it's fairly evident who the celebrity is on the small restaurant stretch of Guyang Lu. Ji Heng (吉亨), an undersized eatery specializing in Taiwan-style beef noodles, is the only place on the block with a line of fans queuing up outside the door.

The bowl of noodles is an all-around winner when stacked up against its Shanghai contemporaries. The broth lacks the thick sheen of grease at Yolota, yet is richer and more flavorful than the bowl at Noodle Bull. The chunks of beef are smaller and flakier and more delicious; the noodles are perfectly cooked.

Ji Heng also has other traditional Taiwanese snacks, including forgettable dumplings in spicy oil and some decent spicy cabbage and soy tofu. But the folks lining up outside, sometimes for over half an hour, are there for one thing and one thing only. We suggest you go during off-hours, but go nevertheless.

Ji Heng - No. 433 Guyang Lu, near Zhanghong Lu (吉亨 - 古羊路433号, 近张虹路) Tel: 2809-6088

Eric Hu is Shanghaiist's Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news and gossip about Shanghai's food scene to food at shanghaiist.com.