Pizza and pasta joints have been sprouting up like chicken pox these past few months and we’ve tried our damndest to hit every one. Our latest was Seve, a quiet trattoria in the French concession that unfortunately proved the straggler in the herd.
Furnished wood chairs, dim dangling bulbs, a tree-sheltered terrace, and the soft crooning of Rat Pack cover artists. Waitresses are pleasant and forthcoming with their explanations and recommendations.
Pastas hover around 70-80RMB and include lamb tagliatelle (75RMB), homemade ‘tortelloni’ (80RMB) or ravioli filled with mushrooms and mascarpone, and homemade ‘Strozzapretie alla Norcina’ (75RMB) with mushrooms and sausage. Though the “home-made” label ignited our hopes, the latter was fairly lackluster with a domineering cream sauce that crowded out the mushrooms and sausage.
Pizzas are affordable at 45-98RMB a pie, and feature some zany creations such as the Briosa (98RMB), a mashup of brie, walnuts and San Daniele ham. We sampled the ‘Fughi E Crudo (98RMB), which consisted of a mushroom and eggplant pie draped with giant, tarp-like pieces of San Daniele ham in the likeness of a cloth-covered painting before its unveiling.
Unfortunately, this painting was a Pollock; noisy, messy, and all over the place. The eggplants tasted dehydrated and crunchy as opposed to moist and fleshy while the crust sogged like undercooked pitta bread – a characteristic of seemingly all Seve’s pizza crusts. The mushrooms had the vibrancy of packing peanuts. Only the ham was edible.
Wines start at 40-45RMB, and sparkling water will set you back at 40RMB per liter, about half of what most places charge.
Seve’s ambience is low-key and pleasant and its prices are agreeable, but if you want some flavor with your affordability, head to Fat Mama or Italian Kitchen.
Seve – 600 Huashan Lu, near Zhenning Lu, Jingan district (静安区华山路600号, 近镇宁路). Tel: (0)21-6249-3638. Hours: 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm daily.
See a complete list of our reviews here.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].