The opening of Tock’s earlier this month signaled the culmination of Brian Tock and Richard Tock’s 15-year dream to bring Montreal smoked meats to China. And it stacks up as well as its mouthwatering triple-decker reuben.
Casual 50s diner vibe. Black booths, white counter-tops with ketchup and mustard bottles, and an open kitchen. On the day I went, the staff were a bit snippy and not that helpful. They treated me more like they were teachers reprimanding a slacker student who’d forgotten his homework assignment of memorizing the menu, rather than a new customer unfamiliar with their offerings. Yes, I live in China and know this is the norm. However, in this case, the attitude clashed jarringly with the management’s friendliness and the otherwise laid back Montreal atmosphere.
Scene-stealers are the classic poutine and sandwiches with smoked turkey, duck pastrami, and house-smoked brisket of which you can choose between four grades of fattiness. Sandwiches come in regular (150g) and monster (225g) sizes, and are served with home-brined pickles, fries, and coleslaw with a vinegar-based, rather than mayo-based, dressing.
If we were forced to order one dish, we’d opt for the reuben (88RMB small, 98RMB large), two stories of smoked brisket, homemade sauerkraut, and Swiss cheese jammed between three slices of rye bread baked by Glo London. It’s a sandwich so mammoth that unless you have a mouth like Pacman (which I luckily kind’ve do), you won’t to be able to fit your jaws around the whole shebang. Splitting it into two parts may be necessary.
Fortunately the flavor’s just as massive. Lush briny sauerkraut, drizzly cheese, savory pink meat, and juice-sponging bread all combine to create triple decker deliciousness and one of our favorite sandwiches in Shanghai.
A Montreal diner serving amazing poutine and masterfully-cured deli meat is too rare a breed in Shanghai to pass up. Hoof it on down.
Tock’s – 221 Henan Zhong Lu, near Fuzhou Lu, Huangpu district (黄浦区河南中路221号, 近福州路). Tel: 152-2113-3516. Hours: 11am-5pm daily.
See a complete list of our reviews here.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].