Upon learning that Blue and Brown’s durian pizza had become a huge hit with Shanghai’s elite, I duct-taped my nose and gave it a try. And I have to admit, while I won’t be joining the ranks of the city’s durian pizza-philes, it wasn’t as bad as it sounds/smells.
As the photo shows, Blue and Brown’s durian pizza (55RMB) is more a compilation of cheesy breadsticks with custardy hunks of durian slopped on top than an actual pizza. We also noticed that the characteristic stench (which got the fruit banned from public places across Asia) wasn’t as ripe as normal. The telltale notes of roadkill and sweaty bicycle shorts were present, just muffled by the cheese and the fact that the durian comes previously frozen.
The pizza’s main problem wasn’t actually the stench at all, but that the nectary durian sludge proved too cloying for the cheese. The first few sticks were bearable, but by the last one, the cumulative sweet-salty contrast had scrambled our taste buds. We might as well have been scarfing Peeps dipped in balsamic vinegar.
However, considering that since it’s opening last September Blue and Brown has been selling an average of 70 durian pizzas per day, we can’t really sell the durian pizza short. And it’s still preferable to Pizza Hut’s shrimp tempura, wasabi mayonnaise, and hot dog-stuffed crust special. Then again, colon cancer probably is too.
Blue and Brown – 450 Huichuan Lu, near Kaixuan Lu (汇川路450号, 近凯旋路). Tel: (0)21-3256-7870. Hours: 10am-10pm daily.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].