Upmarket Italian eatery Casa Mosaico is the newest, and easily most polished-looking inductee of Yongfu Lu’s somewhat grungy, marijuana-wreathed strip. And its chic environment is really what you’re paying for. The appetizers and pastas are freshly-crafted and tasty but the secondos seem tired, overpriced, and punily-portioned as if they were cut and pasted from every Shanghai fine-dining menu ever.
Casa Mosaico’s glowing, white-linen interior acts as a rescue beacon for those seeking shelter from the marijuana mongers and monkeys prowling the shady strip. Simple tan walls, a wine bar and mostly four-seater tables comprise the interior.
Staff mean well, but fumble through explaining the menu offerings, and appear unable to answer questions about the menu, instead dissolving into nervous giggles, plastic smiles, and nods of mock-understanding. This may fly at the local Coco, but not at a supposed upscale Italian joint.
Also, they charge you 50RMB for still water, unless you question them about it, upon which they’ll get it from their water filter for free.
Appetizers and pastas are Casa Mosaico’s strengths. From the antipasti section, try the classic prosciutto with Hami melon (118RMB). The prosciutto is silky, streaked with fat, and the perfect room temp, and the melon presents a cool, nectary chaser to cut the saltiness. Pastas run you between 100-150RMB, and include spaghetti carbonara, a non-sweet chocolate fettucini, gnocchi gorgonzola, and our favorite, the ravioli dal bosco, flying-saucer-esque envelopes of wheat swollen with minced beef, carrots, and celery, and dressed with wild mushroom sauce. The waitresses call them “jiaozi,” and come to think of it they do evoke a flatter, Italian equivalent.
Entrees entail a fairly standard assortment of filet mignon, tuna mignon, New Zealand rack of lamb, the highlighted cod filet with shrimp-ginger bisque (210RMB) and other dishes that seem ripped straight from the kitchen of a Royal Caribbean cruise ship. None are terrible, nor particularly memorable. All cost you upwards of 200RMB.
Casa Mosaico has a classy ambience and well-executed appetizers but stumbles with its cliche mains and clunky service. We advise compiling your meal from a medley of antipasti and primo offerings.
Casa Mosaico – 1/F, 47 Yongfu Lu, near Wuyuan Lu (永福路47号1楼, 近五原路). Tel: 189-1890-3956. Hours: 12pm-2pm lunch, 5:30pm-10:30pm dinner.
See a complete list of our reviews here.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].