Doner kebabs and pita are as ubiquitous as hotdogs in the US, and in Shanghai, they’re starting to follow suit. Oh My Kebab is the latest doner dive to hit the scene, and while it’s not as refined as Brothers Kebab or Andalou, it was enough to satisfy our raging ‘doner.’
Formerly Handle Bar, Oh My Kebab isn’t exactly a looker. Heck, it’s not far removed from the guy slinging shawarma out of the street cart outside – basically, a bar, a couple stools, some bikes on the wall to give it a hipster vibe, and twin doners slowly rotating behind glass in the back. It’s not really supposed to be. Service is like a food truck’s: no frills, and to the point.
The ‘doner’ kebab, meat shaved from a vertical spit onto a bed of veggies and flatbread, is a prime example of culinary cross-pollination – allegedly brought to Germany by Turkish immigrants in the 1970s, though origins are constantly disputed. Whatever the case, Oh My Kebab has bastardized it even further, teaming it up with baseball park favorites like chili cheese fries, and Brooklyn Lager.
Kebabs entail your pork, chicken, beef, and lamb, a standard array, but still a lot more diverse than at an alarming number of Shanghai doner spots (looking at you, JoJo). Or it would be if they ever had lamb and beef, the two staple kebab proteins and half their menu, in stock. C’mon guys, you’re sourcing beef and lamb, not Phoenix tears, let’s nail down those supply lines (or scrap the options from the menu)
Their centerpiece is the Jumbo Kebab Plate (50RMB), a mattress of veg, onions, and other assorted veg, topped with either pork or chicken (or a combo of the two), slathered with yoghurt sauce, and paired with a pillowy pita disc – the vessel for all that goodness. The sauce-meat combo was strong, but they could’ve scaled back the veggies. Seriously, we felt like we needed a pith helmet and machete to slash our way through to the meat.
If that’s too hulking for you, they’ve also got pitas (35RMB) and wraps (40RMB), the same thing, but with the fillings on the inside of the fluffy flatbread cradle.
If you’ve still got room after that, fill it with their “cheese fries” (25RMB), fries topped with Jalapeno slices and that ubiquitous neon-yellow cheese that looks like you melted a stack of sticky notes. There’s a lot of it. So much, in fact, that it practically cements the fries to the plate. But it’s good old-fashioned runny, greasy, fun, and the molten cheese clone is like crazy glue for sopping up booze.
Speaking of booze, they’ve swapped out the standard Carlsberg and Heineken for Rogue Dead Guy Ale and Brooklyn Lager, a definite plus.
While they’re not serving the most salacious “spinning meat” in town, Oh My Kebab fills a niche: providing dirty-water doners to ease the inevitable Yongkang Road hangover. Especially since they’re open until 12am.
Oh My Kebab – 50 Yongkang Lu, near Jiashan Lu (永康路50号, 近嘉善路). Tel: (0)21-6431-2653. Hours: 12pm-11pm Sun-Thu, 12am-12am Fri-Sat. Closest metro stop: Shanxi Rd, line 1/10.
See a complete list of our reviews here.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].