Eduardo Vargas’s Ceviche is essentially a grittier, less stuffy version of Chicha, its predecessor at Sinan Mansions. No tasting menus or cornball cocktails, just uncut Peruvian classics that would make the motherland proud.
Cozy and homey with a ceviche bar and outside patio. Service is laid back but prompt, and the whole atmosphere rings of a seaside Peruvian villa, making Ceviche an ideal escape from the lashing winter winds.
Naturally, Ceviche’s main attraction is ceviche, of which we recommend the Don Ceviche (40RMB), a healthy heap of raw sea bass hunks squirted with chili and lime and flanked by red onion, corn, and lettuce. The ratio of dressing to fish is perfect; the chili-lime marinade adds zip to the dish without trampling upon the sea bass’s sashimi-like succulence. We liked the dressing so much that even after we’d massacred the fish hunks, we were still dabbing it up with corn crumbs, in denial that the dish had passed on.
Causas or mashed potato cakes are ceviche’s other specialty. We sampled the Causa de Pulpo (40RMB), a causa adorned with a crown of octopus disks and creamy olive sauce, and paired with quail eggs. Our only complaint was that the dish was slightly too chilled, which suppressed the flavors a smidge.
Ironically at a place called Ceviche, a hot dish stole the show; the pork chicharrones (30RMB). Hard to beat two blocks of pork belly with alternating stories of glistening fat and meat resting on a mat of mashed sweet potato that has the consistency of a cloud – a must for hong shao rou fans.
Soothe the salty sting of the ceviche with a selection of piscos ranging from 40-80RMB a glass, wines, and Argentinian Quilmes beer (30RMB) or Volcanes Premium Lager from Chile (40RMB).
Ceviche provides a seaside getaway for the palate with honest Peruvian coastal fare.
Ceviche – 559 Fuxing Zhong Lu, near Sinan Lu Huangpu district (黄浦区复兴中路559号, 近思南路)/ Tel: (0)21-5404-1052. Hours: 12y-3pm, 5-10pm Mon-Sat.
See a complete list of our reviews here.
Benjamin Cost is Shanghaiist’s Food Editor. Email tips, recommendations, and news updates on Shanghai’s dining scene to [email protected].